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Die Weltwanderin

Bild von Annika
Annika

Ich bin verliebt in die Welt, ihre Berge und das Abenteuer. Seit jeher beschäftigt mich eine starke Sehnsucht nach einem intensiven Leben. Dabei bedeutet Wandern für mich pure Freiheit und Glück. Auf diesem Blog lest ihr alles über meine Abenteuer auf der ganzen Welt.

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Der Te Araroa ist nichts für dich…

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Bevor sich Weltwanderin voll auf Thru-Hiking fokussierte, habe ich auch über meine Reisen und alpinen Bergsport geschrieben. Diese Artikel findet ihr hier:

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Geierköpfe are a powerful and striking mountain m Geierköpfe are a powerful and striking mountain massif. The long ridge features three distinct peaks — the eastern, the main, and the western one adorned with a cross.  Along the way lies some serious scrambling (UIAA I–II / US class 2–3) and absolutely stunning views. The fresh snow added a sprinkle of magic to the landscape without becoming much of an obstacle.  Not gonna lie — I used to feel more confident in this kind of terrain, but I’m so happy I finally got to complete it. I attempted this hike 11 years ago, but bad weather forced me to turn back. Since then, it’s been on my list.  #itsgreatoutthere #hiking #munichmountaingirls  #neverstopexploring #ammergaueralpen @alltrails @thru_r
I realized I somehow skipped Day 11 on the HRP; it I realized I somehow skipped Day 11 on the HRP; it must have gotten lost between the ridges. So here’s a little throwback.  HRP Day 11: Between Cheese Bliss and the Dizzy Path
Lac Casterau to Lacs d’Arrémoulit  The HRP has its own way of making every day unforgettable. This one starts under the full moon, Venus and Jupiter glowing above the jagged silhouette of Pic du Midi d’Ossau. Marmots whistle as we cross boulder fields and reach Col de Peyreget before the first sunlight hits. Below us lie green lakes and Refuge de Pombie beneath the dark wall of the Ossau.  We descend toward the refuge and its heart-shaped lake, where the heat quickly increases. In the shade we refill our bottles before descending further and crawl up the final steep meters to the road. A couple sells cheese in a small hut by the road, and we buy a block of sheep’s cheese. It tastes divine; we should have bought more.  The next climb is long, hot and relentless. I inch upward from patch to patch of shade, determined to stay better hydrated today. As usual, clouds build in the afternoon and bring relief. From Col d’Arrious the trail narrows into the Passage d’Orteig. A narrow ledge above a sheer drop, lined with iron chains. Even Angels Landing in Zion National Park feels tame compared to this. I keep my eyes on the rock, not the turquoise lake far below.  Rain falls behind us but spares our ridge. We descend to the turquoise lakes of Arrémoulit, where we find a sheltered campsite between rocks and water. After 1,700 meters of climbing, it’s enough for today. The sun breaks through one last time, painting the granite gold.  #hauteroutepyrenees #hauterandonnéepyrénéenne @alltrails #THRUrTrailTeam #THRUr @thru_r @thetrek.co
HRP Day 37 – Arrival at the Mediterranean Col de HRP Day 37 – Arrival at the Mediterranean
Col de l’Ouillat to Banyuls-sur-Mer  The final day begins grey and wet, but Cordelia and Ben are already gone when we crawl out of the damp tent. The path follows a long ridge toward the sea — at first hidden, then shimmering faintly through the mist. The hills grow rounder, softer, lower. A cool wind dries our clothes, and for once it isn’t hot.  At Pic Neulos (1,256 m) we pause to take in the hazy view, then continue over rolling ridges. We stop at Pic de Sailfort for lunch — only to discover mold on our cheese. We cut off the bad parts and eat it anyway. Defiance is part of thru-hiking.  Dark clouds pile up behind us. Rain catches us long before the coast. We hide under trees, waiting for it to pass, but it doesn’t. Eventually we give in, put on our rain jackets, turn up the music, and walk the last hour getting soaked.  I’d imagined the arrival at the Mediterranean Sea differently. We reach Banyuls-sur-Mer dripping wet, standing among palm trees on a pebble beach. One quick photo, and we head for the hotel. It’s done.  Later we meet the others — Cordelia, Ben, Hugo, and Sanne — all reunited. We wash off the grime, rinse clothes in the sink, and sit together at a seaside tapas bar. We toast to 771 kilometers, 37 days, 47,730 meters of elevation gain, to storms, sun, exhaustion, friendship, and to that quiet, unbelievable moment when we reached the sea.  The next day, we wander through Banyuls, buy our final baguette, and board a bus to Perpignan. It runs late, and we barely catch our FlixBus to Barcelona — the driver grudgingly reopening the door. Forty-five minutes before Barcelona, the bus breaks down at a highway rest stop. No information, no plan. We shoulder our packs and start walking. Soon we notice yellow Camino arrows — we're on the Via Augusta. Somehow, it feels like the perfect ending.  #hauteroutepyrenees #hauterandonnéepyrénéenne @alltrails #THRUrTrailTeam #THRUr @thru_r @thetrek.co
HRP Day 36 – Of Fanta, Flies and Friendships Ref HRP Day 36 – Of Fanta, Flies and Friendships
Refugi de les Salines to Col de l’Ouillat via Le Perthus  The morning is warm and heavy with clouds, but the climbs are gentle, the paths wide. After five downhill kilometers, we reach Las Illas, where cats greet us.  We walk the 18 km to Le Perthus in silence, cork oaks lining the dirt roads. The town is as awful as expected: traffic, noise, cigarette shops, heat, and fumes. Ryan braves the supermarket for baguette while I guard the packs. They don't have Orangina, so Fanta it is. A quick meal, then escape.  Ahead lie 700 humid meters of climbing. We’re drenched, while the forest is bone-dry. At last, we find a spring, but the water flows into a sealed tank. Ryan climbs up and scoops it out by hand.  Flies swarm our faces, my shirt catches on thorns, and a grasshopper jumps straight into my shirt. I scream and fling it out and finally lose my patience. Not the storms or steep climbs, not the cold — this is what breaks me. The HRP ends as it began: hot, sticky, relentless.  At the Chalet de l’Albère we collapse over Orangina and crêpes. Fog hides the view, a golden retriever begs for pets, and an orange cat balances on the railing. Then — Cordelia! We haven’t seen her since Gavarnie. We also meet two French hikers, Ben and Hugo, and share a night of laughter and memories.  Dinner feels like a feast: bread with tomato spread, pasta with mushrooms, baked brie, and stracciatella yogurt. Fog rolls in thick; when we step outside, we can barely find our tent. It feels like The Mist by Stephen King, except the only monsters here are mosquitoes.  #hauteroutepyrenees #hauterandonnéepyrénéenne @alltrails #THRUrTrailTeam #THRUr @thru_r @thetrek.co
HRP Day 35 – From Meltdown to Mediterranean View HRP Day 35 – From Meltdown to Mediterranean Views
Arles-sur-Tech to Refugi de les Salines  In town we resupply and wander the pretty streets of Arles-sur-Tech. But suddenly everything's too hot, too loud, too much. My brain hums, my body freezes. I shove my Loops in, breathe, and decide — I need the quiet of the trail.  The climb is steep and humid; sweat runs down my face and we stop every few hundred meters. I wipe my face with a towel and I drink Orangina like a magic potion. There’s no view — just trees and heat.  We descend to La Fargassa, an eco-lodge where a kitten purrs as we pet it — a small, peaceful moment before the final big climb of the HRP. Over 1,000 meters of elevation gain in sticky forest air later.  The HRP leaves the easy GR10 for its own route over Roc de Frausa (1,450 m) — a scratchy, overgrown path. At the top, a cool wind greets us, and for the first time we see the Mediterranean Sea. From one ocean to another — a thought that humbles me. In just a few days, this thru-hike will be a memory. We joke about turning around and walking back to the Atlantic.  We camp by a closed refuge with a cold fountain and soft grass. We chat with two students from Toulouse, heading farther for showers at the campground. Sweet summer children. Tomorrow’s sweat will erase any effort. Up here it’s cooler anyway, though the mosquitoes disagree. We cook our usual dinner of noodles, salami, and Knorr Thai soup. 
Only two nights left on the HRP. I’m glad to spend them here, between cicadas and the sound of running water. Civilization can wait.  #hauteroutepyrenees #hauterandonnéepyrénéenne @alltrails #THRUrTrailTeam #THRUr @thru_r @thetrek.co
HRP Day 34 – Farewell to the High Pyrenees Pla d HRP Day 34 – Farewell to the High Pyrenees
Pla de Cady to Arles-sur-Tech  Since we camped below Pic du Canigou, the summit isn’t far. The trail winds pleasantly upward until a short chimney scramble brings a perfect touch of thrill. At the top, an icy wind whips prayer flags across my face, clouds drift over the ridges, and the Mediterranean hides somewhere behind them. It feels like a worthy farewell to the high Pyrenees.  It quickly turns bitterly cold. I pull on my rain jacket and double gloves, and we begin our descent, an easier series of switchbacks on the shaded side of the mountain. At Refuge des Cortalets I warm up with a hot chocolate before the trail drops through forest, then contours the Canigou massif along a balcony path, though the clouds deny us any views. 
Two cows with calves block the way, fixated on licking salt from the rocks. A hiker tries to pass and gets knocked into a thorn bush. When I attempt it, the cow swats her head again and I land in the dust. We didn’t expect the hardest obstacle of the day to have horns.  Past them, the descent continues through the forest to Refuge de Batère. We’re too late for lunch, so we settle for Orangina. From here it’s all downhill to Arles-sur-Tech that sits at 282 meters elevation. It’s been ages since we were below 1,000 meters. We’re now in the foothills of the Pyrenees, drawing closer to the end. For the rest of the way to Banyuls, the HRP follows the GR10. 
The trail turns dry and Mediterranean: pines, dust, and buzzing flies that we fend off with furious trekking-pole swings. After 33 km, we reach the town exhausted. All we want is to shower, eat, and rest. We chat with Sanne from the Netherlands over dinner, trading trail stories as the sky darkens and mosquitoes come out. We’re tired, happy, and full of gratitude for how far we’ve come.  #hauteroutepyrenees #hauterandonnéepyrénéenne @alltrails #THRUrTrailTeam #THRUr @thru_r @thetrek.co
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